Crossing 130km to Irkeshtam border 吉爾吉斯坦|穿越130公里到伊爾克什坦

at irkeshtam

中文在下方

We started to wait outside before the gate open, because we must be arrived before 11 O’ Clock, but we have to stamp out first at immigration department. There are not only a huge mount of people in China also a wide land, can’t believe that they put immigration department 130 km away from the border. The most important thing is we heard that everyone is not allow to hitchhike here. We entered with few people when the gate opened, staff in the office asked us what will be our transportation, of course we hitchhike, “No way! It’s illegal." Any rules in the world was designed by people, who made this stupid rule? OK, they put this office 130 km away from the border, then we have to pay for a taxi? So we watched a group of people had their packages checked and got a stamp then leave. Actually there are not many people. Here came one more car with only 2 German, their driver said “It’s full." unless we take a taxi with other people, no one’s willing to take us.

Marlin and Alex still not showing up, we didn’t want to wait one more night. Fortunately, we didn’t spend 200 RMB for accommodation last night, it’s all for an empty bus. Scenery was beautiful, but things’s happening here made me sighed. After hundred kilometers we arrived the last stop at the border, they took our passport away, then told us we have to wait after their break time… actually, there was still 10 minutes to the break time, what ever. Marlin and Alex took a van to reach us, they made a instant noodle, we talked about our thrilling camping story last night and following plan.

Finally we left China to the other side, there was not much people heading to Kyrgyzstan. Guard first check visitors from Kyrgyzstan to China, and then check out visitors to Kyrgyzstan. Guard let bus took us to immigration department of Kyrgyz side, those two German seemed to be very angry, like they don’t want to mix with us, one of them yelled " Stupid! Stupid! We are from Deutschland."  I rolled my eyes at him when I heard this.

Across the mountains, all the scenery had changed. Stood on the land of Kyrgyzstan, I felt this is the air of freedom and fresh, mountains covered with snow, there was a guy riding a horse on the road, it was my first time to see people riding a horse as a bike freely. My soul of tourist burnt out, I took some pictures then asked if I can try, I was so excited. We passed through more yurts, a girl raised her arm with a bottle of horse milk for sale. “Hey, we must try that horse milk and camp with nomads someday." I said.

We had to feel the altitude few times during our travel. This time in Sary Tash, the Kyrgyz town you will see arriving from China or Pamir. Sary Tash is located 3200m above sea level, so when we were arriving from Kashgar it was pretty high for us. After said goodbye to Alex and Malin here, we started our hitchhiking way to Osh. We promised to meet them again.


一早連大門都還沒開放我們就在外面等待,為的就是要趕在十一點之前到邊境,但在這之前必須先到移民署蓋章出境,人多地也大的中國竟然把移民署設在邊境前130公里處的地方,而且蓋完出境章後聽說還不能搭便車到邊境。大門一開放時我跟幾個人就一起進去,但是移民署的人問說我們要如何前往邊境,當然是搭便車!「不行,這是違法的。」世界上任何規定都是人訂出來的,是誰訂了這愚蠢的規則,移民署設在百公里外就算了,還必須搭所謂的計程車離開,就這樣我們在裡面坐看別人一個一個檢查行李和蓋章離開,其實也沒多少人。然後又來了一台車,上面載著兩個德國人,他們的司機說車子已經滿了,除非與別人合併搭計程車付費,也沒任何人願意載我們。

眼看Marlin和Alex尚未出現,我們可不想再多待一晚,所幸昨晚沒把我們剩餘的200人民幣拿去住宿,就這樣把我們最後的人民幣花光上了一台空的遊覽車。路途風光依舊美麗,但這塊土地正在發生的種種令我感慨,開了一百多公里終於到邊防看守的最後一站,他們收走了證件,然後說要等他們午休後才通過,明明還有十幾分鐘時間,算了不計較。Marlin和Alex搭了車趕上我們,甚至還吃了泡麵,我們聊聊昨晚的驚險與接下來的計劃。

before arriving irkeshtam
終於離開中國的一邊了,前往吉爾吉斯坦的沒多少人,守衛先檢查從吉爾吉斯坦往中國的遊客,然後才檢查我們幾位往吉爾吉斯坦的遊客,守衛讓遊覽車把我們通通載往吉爾吉斯坦的移民署,那兩位德國人似乎很生氣,覺得不想與我們混一起,一直嚷著笨蛋!笨蛋!我們是德國人。我們聽了真傻眼,德國人又怎樣?

翻過山一切景色又變了,踏上吉爾吉斯坦的土地,總覺得空氣自由又新鮮,遠山覆蓋著白雪,有人騎著馬在公路上閑晃,第一次看到有人騎馬像騎單車一樣的自由自在,我們的觀光客之魂就上身了,拍了又拍甚至還要求試騎,高興的不得了。一路上經過了更多的游牧帳篷,甚至有小女孩在路邊高舉著裝滿馬奶的瓶子販售,我說啊,我們有一天一定要喝那馬奶還有跟著牧人一起搭帳篷睡覺。

在我們的旅程中偶爾要感受到海拔的變化,這次在吉爾吉斯坦的Sary Tash,從帕米爾或中國過來會抵達的第一個小村,位於海拔三千兩百公尺高,從喀什來到這果然對我們來說有點高,傍晚我們跟Alex和Malin說再見,然後我們繼續搭便車往奧什,我們答應要再見面。

kyrgyz and horse

me in irkeshtam

kyrgyz girl with horse milk

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