Hitchhiking 4700km in 8 days 中國|八天四千七百公里路part2

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Third day, 220-220=0

In the morning we had Lan Zhou cold noodles for breakfast then we went back to our hostel to take a shower. After that we were back on the highway near noon. There are two highways to Xin Jiang which you can take. The G30 at Northern Gansu province or the desert highway in Ching Hai province. We thought the desert highway should be the more beautiful and short one, so we gave it a try! It took us one and half hour to leave the huge Lan Zhou city and luckily we catched a car to Xining city. We got off on a petrol station before Xining city and found out all the cars were going to Xining, no one was going further. That was a dead end.

" Xining is a big city, it’s hard to get out of it." People told us there are not much cars going the desert highway. “What if we get trapped in the desert, that will be the end." We considered different situations and one hour later we decided to get back to Lan Zhou. For a good reason?

It was 8 p.m. when we were back to Lan Zhou to try again the other option. I had a strange insistence to camp near the highway and leave it early next morning. And that was the worst night of our road trip. In the evening before going to camp we tried to hitchhike to the service area which was located 2 kilometers from the highway entrance but without success. The highway entrance Lan Zhou Bei (蘭州北) was in very bad condition. Too much traffic, and the whole place looked like under construction. It’s sandy, messy. We gave up and walked up to the hills beside the highway. There were huge dogs in the cage on the way, which scared us to death, when they started to bark at us from the dark. We climbed up the hills, found the most hidden place beside a railway tunnel with a lot of trains passing by, but I was so tired I didn’t care too much. I fell asleep with the noise of the train horn and in the middle of the night I woke up because of a crazy dog which was barking around our tent.

Fourth day, 720km

Next morning we were lucky to get a ride to the service area in short time, which was just 3 kilometers away from highway entrance. Today’s mission was to hitch a ride to the west and it turned out to be an endless waiting. It was a hot, sunny day, and during our 3 hours of waiting, even the service area staff came to us and suggested to take a bus. I tried to convince myself to give up and take the bus. While I went to toilet, Misha had a misunderstanding communication with a driver, and we took a car heading wrong way. 50 kilometers later, we were dropped off at the junction of two highways. There were not many cars and each of them passed through with high speed. We were standing on the highway and luckily a car stopped for us.

We hitched a ride with a Russian speaking driver. He has a business in Central Asia, so he learned Russian by himself. I made Misha talking to him, so I had my own time to watch scenery. Tian Mountain(天山), ancient frontier walls, desert… driver told us the desert highway we wanted to go is dangerous for camping because there are big bad wild wolves! I was really happy that our long waiting time in Lan Zhou was worth it!

第三天,220-220=0

一早去吃旅舍附近的蘭州涼麵回來後沖個澡,中午我們又出發了,去往新疆有兩條路可以走,北邊甘肅省G30高速或青海省的沙漠公路,我們決定試一試似乎比較美也比較近的沙漠公路,花了一個半鐘頭離開了蘭州市區,信心滿滿,我們一下子就搭到一台往西寧市的車,在進入西寧市前的加油站下車,發現所有的車都只到西寧市,沒有人往更遠的方向走了,「西寧市也是個大城市,我們會很難離開。」、「聽說很少很少車走沙漠公路。」、「萬一真的卡在沙漠⋯我們就完了。」,眾多考量之下,一小時後決定返回蘭州,但這真的是好的決定嗎?

回到蘭州已是晚上八點多,這天我有個奇怪的堅持,不再進市區,隔天一早離開!然後我們在這度過公路之旅最糟糕的一晚,我們試著搭便車到兩公里遠的服務區,但蘭州北這個高速路口實在環境太差,車流量大,又有施工處,我們放棄後就走向路旁的山坡,山坡入口有兩隻大狗關在籠子內,上山後唯一最隱蔽的地方竟然是火車山洞旁的平地,我身心疲憊已經什麼都不管了,就在不時有火車鳴聲的背景下入睡,半夜又在瘋狗亂吠的情況驚醒,心臟噗通噗通多跳了好幾下。

第四天,720km

很幸運的我們很快就到了上高速三公里後的服務區,任務是找到一輛往西的車,換來的是場漫長的等待⋯,三小時在大太陽底下攔車,甚至服務區員工來建議我們搭巴士,我不斷想說服自己放棄,去搭個大巴士離開,就在我去上洗手間時,Misha似乎溝通錯誤然後我們就上了台其實是往東的車離開了,在要往東之前,載我們的先生把我們放在高速公路上的岔路,雖然這裡車子不多,但每一台是快速的飛越,僅管如此,第二台車快速的在公路上煞車為我們停下。

後來又搭上一台會講俄羅斯語的司機,他說為了做中亞的生意就學了俄羅斯語,我把他交給Misha後,欣賞著遠邊的天山、古老的城牆、荒漠,聽說那條沙漠公路有大野狼,在那露營是很危險的,不禁為這兩天的勞累感到慶幸。

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