Wander in Fukushima, Yame 日本|在八女福島的午後散步(上)

在八女市福島

中文原文在下方

After said goodbye to Jiro, I took a 40-minutes bus from上本分, the bus full of high school students, different from the beginning when the bus was only an old woman, it looks more vibrant now. To the time has been two o’clock in the afternoon, Fukushima is a quiet town, the station almost no one, only one Cleaner in the cleaning, he sees me throw ice cream cover, with exaggerated action and says that now eats this very cold! No way, I want to eat ice cream as more as possible before returning to China.

Looking at the tour maps which I took from an office next to station, casually selected a street to go past, the streets are desolate and quiet,the shops are closed, all the scenery seem to stay in the decades ago, All around the white walls of the Kura, Edo, Meiji, Taisho, the early Showa era of the traditional wall of the warehouse structure, a combination of workplace and home of the building, but also a mixture of workplace and home There are a lot of people and artisans on behalf of this. Into a store which the name very attractive to me – Sagara Ya(相良矢工房), clearly it’s a long history of heritage career, the front desk with the turned-on computer, big and small size of bows and arrows hanging on the wall, the sun shine through the glass at the plant beside the door, a frame is written with the origin history of the  bow and arch in the display cabinets, here’s no one and unusual silence let me want to go out , but this mysterious atmosphere caught me, and I want to find out what’s behind the entrance with hanging curtain. I go to the door and find it is a workplace, there are two middle-aged men making arrows, I stare for a while, one rises his head and greeted me with a nod, I asked him what material of these? Is feather real? Is there anyone else in archery? Who are the people buying bows and arrows? Are you the boss here? Yes, he is. The boss answered everything and no more conversation, another employee only looked up once, perhaps the language barrier, perhaps they are used to the intrusion of tourists, I seem to disturb people, and this quiet atmosphere makes the arrow like a sacred work.

Went to the opposite house called the “interchange house”, some people looking at the exhibition with the narrator, a group of people surrounded at the heater in the hall, drinking tea, chatting… they are all silver hair, I carefully read a few paintings, “Now you only one person, come to have a cup of tea.” I was summoned by the granny to the hall, of course, I’d like to chat with the local people and drink tea, she served me a cup of hot tea and accompanied by a few packs of small snacks, another grandpa is also amiable to introduce me to the attractions here, the tourist center which Jiro told me still a distance, I praise grandpa talking slowly and well in English, he mentioned to 20 years ago to retire the teacher, had traveled to Copenhagen to visit the married daughter, learnt a little English while traveled in Europe. Has been three o’clock in the afternoon, had to ask them to recommend me must-go tea house. when I leave, granny gives all the small snacks to me, with a grandpa painted map mark, for me here is the best of the visitor center.


跟Jiro說再見後,從黑木町的上本分站出發,約40分鐘的車程,車上都是高中生,跟我一開始來時車上只有一個老奶奶的背影顯得朝氣多了。到的時候已經下午兩點多,又是一個寧靜的小鎮,車站幾乎沒有什麼人,只有一個阿伯在打掃,看見我丟冰淇淋蓋子的時候,用誇張的動作表示現在吃這個很冷耶!
沒辦法,就是要趁回中國之前多吃冰淇淋。

看著在車站旁辦公室拿的導覽地圖,隨意選了一條街走了過去,街上冷冷清清非常安靜,站前的商店街都關著,一切景物似停留在30年前的店家與招牌設計,繞進巷子內,更有種時空錯亂感,一整條都是白壁的町屋,江戶、明治、大正、昭和初期的傳統的土牆倉房構造,一種結合工作場所與住家的建築,也代表這裡有很多職人與工匠。走進了一個名字很吸引我的店家-相良矢工房,顯然是個歷史長久傳承的事業,櫃台擺著開機的電腦,看著大大小小的弓箭、陽光透過玻璃照在門口的植物、展示櫃上一幅裱框寫著破魔矢和破魔弓的歷史由來,這裡不但沒有人還異常的寂靜,空氣凝結的程度一度讓我想走出去,這神秘的氛圍還是抓住了我,掛著透明帷幕的入口更令人想探究竟,走了過去,原來帷幕門旁是個工作室,有兩個中年男子在製箭,盯了好一陣後,一人才抬頭意思的打了招呼,我問問他弓什麼材料做的?羽毛是真的嗎?現在還有什麼人在射箭?哪些地方的人會買弓箭?你是這裡老闆嗎?是的,他是。老闆回答一切後低頭不語,另一位員工只抬頭過一次,或許是語言不通,或許是他們習慣了遊客的闖入,我似乎打擾人家了,這寂靜的氣氛使得製箭像種神聖的工作。

走到對面是間叫町家交流館的房子,有人在看畫展、解說員導覽著、一群人在廳裡喝茶、聊天、烤火…他們都是銀髮人,我仔細看了幾幅畫,「現在只有你一人,來喝杯茶吧。」只剩我一人時,被老奶奶解說員召喚去廳裡了,當然好, 我最喜歡跟當地人聊天喝茶,她端來現泡的煎茶並附上幾包小零食,另一位老爺爺也和藹可親跟我小小介紹這裡的景點,原來Jiro跟我提過的遊客中心還有好一段距離,我稱讚著爺爺慢條斯理講著英文,他提到20年前就退休不當老師了,曾經去過哥本哈根旅行拜訪遠嫁的女兒,去歐洲旅行時學了一點英文。已經下午三點,只好請他們推薦我必去喝茶的茶屋,在我要離開時,奶奶把所有的小零食塞給我,帶著爺爺畫的地圖標示,對我來說這裡已經是最棒的遊客中心。

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